Sunday, 3 April 2011

¡Nos vemos, hasta luego, chao a espectacular Sur America!

Thirty four days ago I set off from a frosty UK for 5 weeks of getting to know more of Argentina and Chile's diversity and landscapes, and they haven't disappointed (as the previously posted photos show... and there are many more to come).  What is now disappointing is that those 5 weeks are nearly up and I can't believe how quickly they've gone gone, and how little chance I've had to write about them. But then, as always, at the same time, it seems as if I've been away for months. When you pack 2, 3, 4 or more things into one day for 34 days, the length of time you're away actually seems to be more like the number of days you're away multiplied by the number of things you've done. So say I've done on average 3 things each day, that's...a much bigger number of days than 34 that I've been away (yes, I know, 102).

So I arrived to a balmy Buenos Aires at the beginning of March, the city just coming out of summer and moving into autumn. Balmy soon turned into scorchio so it wasn't just the change in culture I had to contend with. But it was pretty easy to adjust to both the weather and my surroundings, especially since Georgie, Barbara, Matias and all the folks at ATP DMC welcomed me so nicely and they've looked after me very well here in Argentina ever since. Big thanks to you all and everyone else involved.

And so the expedition began.

My first impressions of Buenos Aires were really pretty good. I've heard in recent times that many people prefer Santiago to Buenos Aires now, that it's smaller, less noisy, cleaner, a more comfortable city to be in and I suppose I can see that to some extent, but as far as big cities go, and Buenos Aires is BIG, I actually liked the momentum and movement of the bustle on the streets here, which noise goes with unavoidably, and I liked the space of Buenos Aires (which isn't to say I don't like Santiago too). Streets are wide, there are many parks, green spaces and plazas, and although most buildings are tall, as is usual for a city where floor space is at a premium, I didn't feel enclosed or in any way claustrophobic, which I sometimes do in a city.  There's an interesting mix of old and new architecture which sit side by side in some districts whilst other districts have a very definite style and character that quite quickly tells you how long it's been part of Buenos Aires. The many different districts or boroughs of the city spread out over a huge area but each is quite distinct in their zone, within their own individual community. I imagine it's a great city to live and work in (as far as cities go) and it reminds me of London in that sense. I didn't spend enough time in Santiago on this trip to explore it much in the same way but from what I did get to see and from time I've spent there previously, I can also imagine it's a great city to live in but it may be that its more compact centre and central districts and its Andes backdrop (which some days you CAN see), make it an easier city to enjoy on a visit for a few days.

From Buenos Aires I headed south to Argentina's far south Patagonia, then across to Chile's far south Patagonia, then down to Chile's even further south Tierra del Fuego, then to Argentina's Tierra del Fuego, then back up to Chile's northern Patagonia, all the way by car up to Santiago from Puerto Varas then by air from there to the Atacama Desert in Chile's northern 2nd Region, across the border by road back into Argentina through some stunning altiplanic landscapes en route to Salta, and now I'm back in Buenos Aires for nearly the last time on this trip (I have another day here en route back to the UK from New Zealand).  All places have been fantastic to experience and beautiful to see, and some of the landscapes have just blown my socks off, especially the geology and geography of the desert and altiplano in and around the Atacama.  I couldn't wait to visit the area again having been to San Pedro de Atacama and the Uyuni salt flats and southern highlands of Bolivia before, and if I'm ever pushed to say a favourite place around the world out of all the places I've visited, it still tops the bill as the place I find most beautiful and the place that has the biggest effect on me. Still.

The colours in these photos are a little bleached by the intense sunlight but they're here as much for me as they are for everyone else (ok, maybe more so for me..) .....

 Andean flamingos at Chaxa Laguna in the Salar de Atacama

Andean avocets(!), again at Chaxa lake in the Salar de Atacama

The Atacama equivalent of the dead sea but here it's fresh water (i.e. not sea or marine water) so high in salt content you can't help but float

And yes, I'm sorry more volcanos, but what do you expect when in Chile; 
Licancabur, in the middle, sits on the border between Chile and Bolivia

A little volcano humour....

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